Four common structures in knitwear are rib, piqué, cable and open knit. Rib is elastic and follows the body, piqué has a fine structure and suits a polo, cable gives relief and open knit is airy and supple. The structure influences how a garment drapes and feels.
Why knit structure makes a difference
Two sweaters of the same fibre can feel and look very different. The difference lies in the way the yarn is knitted. The stitch determines how elastic the fabric is, how much air it holds, how thick it looks and how it drapes. Anyone who knows this does not have to guess when buying knitwear and can choose a sweater that suits the moment: office, weekend or dinner.
Rib: elastic and play of lines
A rib stitch consists of vertical lines of alternating knit and purl stitches. The result is a fabric that stretches and springs back, so it follows the body nicely without constricting. The vertical rib structure is clearly visible and gives the fabric stretch.
Genevieve is a sleeveless ribbed knitted polo for women in black, made of 66.8% viscose 33.2% polyamide. It is meant as a layer under a cardigan or blazer and shows the rib structure well. Ophelia also has a ribbed structure, with a quarter zip, in black of 100% lyocell.
Piqué: fine and neat
Piqué is a stitch with a small, regular structure, often with a slight honeycomb or diamond texture. You know it from classic polo shirts. Piqué has a sturdier, grainy structure and is widely used for polos.
Alistair is a knitted piqué polo with stripe detail for men in navy, made of 80.5% viscose, 19.5% polyamide. Wear it under a blazer or loose over trousers for a Sunday lunch.
Cable: relief with character
A cable stitch is created by crossing groups of stitches over each other. The pattern resembles a twisted rope and gives the sweater volume. Cable knit gives more volume and texture and often feels warmer. Because the structure already says a lot, keep the rest of the outfit calm.
Liorah is a cable-knit polo with gold-coloured buttons in navy, of 80% viscose 20% polyamide. Combine it with white trousers or a knee-length skirt for a polished autumn look.
Open knit: airy and supple
In open knitwear, openings are deliberately worked into the knit structure. That makes it feel airier and a base layer may be visible. It is a stitch that suits the in-between season, when you do not yet need a thick sweater.
An example of truly open knitwear is Augusta, an open-knit polo of wool and cashmere. An open polo without buttons is something different from open knitwear.
Four stitches side by side
| Stitch | Appearance | Feel | Wear with |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rib | Vertical lines | Elastic, follows the body | High-waist trousers |
| Piqué | Small, regular structure | Sturdy and dry | Office and smart casual |
| Cable | Twisted ropes | Full and warm | A calm, plain bottom half |
| Open knit | Airy, without fastening | Supple and light | A shirt or T-shirt underneath |
How do you recognise the stitch in the shop?
You do not need to be a knitter to recognise a stitch. Hold the fabric up to the light and look at the surface. If you see straight vertical lines, it is rib. If you see a fine, waffle-like pattern, it is piqué. If you see thick twisted strands, it is a cable. If you see a lot of air between the stitches or a collar that falls open without buttons, you have an open knit in front of you.
Stretch and suppleness differ per yarn and construction. So always assess the specific garment.
An extra option: tweed look
Besides the four classic stitches there is also a knitted structure that resembles tweed. Fiori is a fine-knit T-shirt with tweed look and buttons for women in navy striped, made of 79.9% viscose, 20.1% polyamide. It shows that knitwear can also look businesslike without becoming heavy.
How to choose the right stitch
- Piqué and fine jersey knit give a calm, structured look.
- Cable knit gives more texture and can feel warmer.
- Open knitwear is airier and can be pleasant on milder days.
- Rib gives visible vertical structure; a smooth jersey knit looks calmer.
See more in our knitwear for men and knitwear for women. You can read more about the fibres themselves on the pages about merino wool and viscose.
Combining with what you already own
Anyone who already has calm trousers or a skirt can fit in any stitch without trouble. A ribbed top goes under everything, a piqué polo suits chinos or trousers, a cable polo calls for a plain bottom half and an open polo suits a shirt. Do not try to wear all stitches in one outfit: choose one as the eye-catcher and keep the rest plain.
Care per stitch
Always follow the care label of the specific garment. Knitwear is often dried flat to limit stretching, but the instructions per material and construction can differ.
Shop the look
Genevieve: sleeveless ribbed polo, black
Alistair: knitted piqué polo, navy
Liorah: cable-knit polo, navy
Theodore: open polo in lyocell, dark charcoal melange
Fiori: fine-knit T-shirt with buttons, navy striped
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between rib and piqué?
Rib has vertical lines and is elastic. Piqué has a small, regular structure and feels drier and sturdy.
Is cable knit only for winter?
It is mainly warm, so most suitable for cold days. A fine cable also suits autumn.
How do I wash knitted polos?
Follow the care label. If flat drying is indicated, lay the garment down in shape.
Can I return knitted clothing?
Yes. Check the current return conditions on the returns page.
