For shorter men, a good fit is mostly about proportions: trousers at the right length, tops that do not fall too long and clothing that is not unnecessarily loose. A slightly higher waist and few hard colour breaks can make the silhouette look longer. More important than such effects is that your clothing is properly adapted to your body.
It is all about proportions
Clothing is often designed for an average height. If you are shorter, sleeves fall too long, trousers pool on your shoes and tops reach halfway down your thighs. As a result, the proportions can look less balanced. With a few adjustments in length and fit, you can improve this considerably. The lines of your clothing should above all be in proportion to your body.
The six most important principles
- Fit above all. Clothing that is too loose makes you disappear. Choose slim-fit or regular-fit pieces that follow your body without being tight.
- No break in your trousers. Trousers that just touch the top of your shoe lengthen your legs. Fabric that pools on your shoe makes them look shorter.
- Tops at the right length. A loose polo or shirt should not reach further than halfway down your fly.
- A slightly higher waist. Trousers with a mid-rise or high waist make your legs look longer.
- A continuous colour line. An outfit in one colour or in shades close together makes you look taller.
- Small details. Choose collars, pockets and patterns that are in proportion to your build.
Trousers: the biggest gain
Start with the length of your trousers. The right trouser length and waist height have a big influence on proportions. The Winston light high-waist trousers in cream have a higher waist that lengthens your legs, especially if you tuck your top in. The Vincent slim-fit trousers in black have a mid-rise and a slim leg: they follow your leg without excess fabric, which makes the whole look sleek and long.
Always have your trousers hemmed to length. A tailor can take in a pair of trousers in no time, and the difference is big. Ask for no break or a very slight break.
Tops: mind the length and the shoulders
Two things matter for tops. The shoulder seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder, and the length should not run too far. A knitted polo with a short, straight hem is ideal. The Theodore fine-knit open polo in light grey melange is made of lyocell and falls softly along the body. The open collar creates a vertical line at the neck.
Wear shirts tucked in. The Hamilton shirt with Italian collar in white has a collar that opens beautifully: an open neckline lengthens your neck and upper body. Choose shirts that sit close at the waist, so there is not too much fabric bunching above your belt. You will find more options in the collection shirts for men.
Tone-on-tone and monochrome
An outfit in one colour or related shades gives fewer visual interruptions. Try the Trenton open merino wool polo in black with the black Vincent trousers and black shoes. Or choose shades of cream and beige: a cream polo with cream trousers. Contrast between top and bottom, such as a white top with black trousers, divides your body into two parts. See more knitwear in the collection knitwear for men.
What helps, and what helps less
| Works well | Works less well |
|---|---|
| Slim-fit trousers with no break | Wide trousers that pool on the shoe |
| Short, straight hem on loose tops | Long polos and oversized shirts |
| Monochrome or tone-on-tone | Hard contrast between top and bottom |
| V-necks and open collars | High, wide collars and thick scarves |
| Fine stripes and small patterns | Large checks and wide horizontal stripes |
| Shoes in the colour of your trousers | Contrasting, heavy shoes |
Shoes and accessories
Shoes in a similar colour to your trousers keep colour contrast limited. Slim loafers or leather sneakers with a narrow toe are better than chunky models that make your feet look heavy. Accessories are welcome, but keep them in proportion: a watch with a smaller case, a narrow belt and a bag that is not too large. A belt in the same colour as your trousers prevents your body from being visually cut in two.
Jackets and layers
For jackets and cardigans, the relationship with your leg length matters most. A jacket to the hip or just below can sit nicely in proportion on a smaller frame. Layers work well, provided they are not too thick. A fine-knit polo under a slim cardigan is better than a chunky sweater under a roomy coat. Discover the basics in trousers for men and all collections for men.
Have what does not fit altered
Even with good choices, not everything will fit perfectly straight away. A tailor can make a big difference, especially with trouser and sleeve lengths. Taking in trousers, shortening sleeves and having a shirt taken in at the waist are simple adjustments that make a big difference. It is better to invest in a few pieces that really fit than in a full wardrobe of clothes that almost fit.
When trying on, always bring the shoes you will wear with the trousers. The right length depends on the height of your heel and sole, and a tailor can only pin properly if you wear the combination the way you will wear it later.
Shop the look
Theodore: fine-knit open polo without buttons, light grey melange
Hamilton: shirt with Italian collar, white
Winston: light high-waist trousers, cream
Vincent: slim-fit trousers with mid-rise, black
Trenton: open merino wool polo, black
Frequently asked questions
Which trousers suit a shorter man best?
Slim-fit or tapered trousers with a mid-rise or higher waist, hemmed to length with no break. That lengthens your legs.
Should shorter men tuck in their shirt?
With dress shirts, always. With polos, wearing them untucked is fine as long as the hem does not reach further than halfway down the fly.
Does monochrome really make you look taller?
Yes. One colour or shades that are close together create a continuous line that lengthens your silhouette.
