You wear a shirt without a tie polished with a collar that stands up by itself, one or two open buttons and a fit that follows the body neatly. Combine it with calm trousers, well-polished shoes and, if you like, a cardigan or jacket. That way the shirt stays polished even without a tie.
Why a shirt without a tie works
In many offices the tie has disappeared, but the shirt has stayed. That calls for a different way of wearing it. Some collars keep their shape better without a tie than others. A sturdy collar can hold more shape without a tie. So pay particular attention to the collar and fit.
In spring there is also the need for lighter clothing. An open collar can be more comfortable in a less formal working environment.
What to look for in the collar
- Sturdiness: the collar must stand up without a tie. Check whether it has collar stays or a firm lining.
- Shape: an Italian collar often works well without a tie. The spread determines how much of the neck stays visible.
- Height: a collar with some height at the back sits nicely around the neck.
- Finish: a stitched edge gives the collar more shape.
Hamilton is a shirt with an Italian collar in white, made of 100% cotton. The same model is available in light blue (Hamilton in light blue). Depending on the occasion, wear one or possibly two buttons open.
How many buttons open?
| Situation | Open buttons | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Meeting | One | Under a jacket or cardigan |
| Regular office day | One or two | With the collar straight |
| Weekend | Two | Sleeves rolled up if you like |
| Dinner | One | With a jacket |
Fit at the neck
Without a tie, the neck is the first thing that stands out. A collar that is too loose shows a gap between fabric and neck. A collar that is too tight pinches and rides up. With the top button done up, the collar should fit comfortably without pinching. If you undo the button, the collar should still lie neatly against the neck.
What to wear over and under it
A cardigan or jacket gives the shirt more structure. Maximilian is a wool cardigan with a business cut for men in beige, made of 100% wool. The cardigan fits snugly enough to go under a coat and lets the collar show nicely. For the bottom half, Ulysses, a slim-fit herringbone trouser in taupe grey, or Vincent, a slim-fit mid-rise trouser in black, works well.
An undershirt is optional. If you wear one, choose a model with a low neckline so that it is not visible in the open collar. A low neckline in a shade that is not visible under the shirt looks calmest.
Three looks for spring
- White shirt, open collar, beige cardigan, taupe trousers and brown loafers.
- Light blue shirt, sleeves turned back once, black trousers and dark sneakers.
- White shirt under a navy jacket, without a tie and without a pocket square, with grey trousers.
Common mistakes
A soft collar can lose its shape faster without a tie. How many buttons you open depends on the occasion and the collar; at the office, one is usually the most formal. Make sure the collar lies neatly. Iron only according to the care label.
Which shirt for which occasion?
Not every day asks for the same thing. A white shirt without a tie suits a meeting, a light blue one a regular working day and a striped one a lunch or Friday. Anyone who wants to appear at a business dinner without a tie adds a jacket and chooses dark trousers. For a weekend in the city, you wear the shirt open over a T-shirt, with rolled-up sleeves and loafers.
Also think about the rest of the week. With a few shirts, trousers and a cardigan you can vary a whole working week. That is the advantage of a calm palette: everything goes with everything, and the tie is no longer a requirement.
Shoes and belt
Without a tie, the emphasis is on what you wear on your feet. Choose well-kept loafers, derbies or smart leather sneakers. A belt in the same colour family keeps the combination calm. That small detail makes the whole thing hold together, even though the shirt is open. Socks in a similar shade to the trousers give less contrast.
Sleeves and cuffs
Without a tie, attention also falls on the wrists. Under a jacket, a small edge of cuff can stay visible. Roll the sleeves up neatly and evenly if the setting is informal enough. A sloppily rolled sleeve undermines the neatness of the open collar.
Care and material
Cotton is a natural choice for a shirt. How cotton feels and is washed depends on the weave and finish. Read more on our page about cotton and see the washing instructions. If you want to see more shirts, look at men's shirts or in Office for Men.
A shirt without a tie is not a compromise, but a style of its own. With a good collar, a suitable fit and a calm combination, you wear it at the office, at lunch and on an evening out.
Shop the look
Hamilton: shirt with Italian collar, white
Hamilton: shirt with Italian collar, light blue
Maximilian: wool cardigan, beige
Ulysses: slim-fit herringbone trousers, taupe grey
Vincent: slim-fit trousers, black
Frequently asked questions
How many buttons do I leave open without a tie?
At the office, one open button is usually the most formal. Two is fine in a looser setting.
Which shirt suits best without a tie?
A shirt with a sturdy collar that stands up, such as an Italian collar with collar stays or lining.
Do I need to wear an undershirt?
That is optional. Preferably choose a model with a low neckline in white or skin tone.
What if the shirt does not fit well?
Check the current return conditions on the returns page.
