Pilling consists of small fibre balls that form when loose fibres clump together through friction. That can happen with wool, cashmere, viscose, lyocell and synthetic blends. You can reduce the risk by limiting friction and unnecessary washing, but you cannot always prevent it completely. If pilling is already there, remove it gently without pulling on the knit.
Why a sweater starts to pill
Pilling forms mainly in places where fabric rubs against fabric, skin, a bag or a coat. How quickly that happens depends on fibre length, yarn, knit structure and use. So it is not right to automatically see pilling as a sign of poor quality, but also not to claim that soft or fine fabrics always pill faster.
Where the friction is
| Spot | Cause | What to do about it |
|---|---|---|
| Under the arms | Friction against your body when moving | Wear a thin undershirt or T-shirt under your sweater |
| Elbow and forearm | Leaning on a desk or armrest | Limit unnecessary friction against a desk or armrest |
| Hip and side | Bag or coat rubbing over the fabric | Watch out for rough bag straps and edges that keep rubbing in the same spot |
| Neck and chest | Scarf, necklace or bag strap | Check accessories that keep moving against the same spot |
| Everywhere after washing | Rubbing in the drum | Follow the care label and limit contact with rough parts |
How to prevent pilling
- Limit unnecessary friction. Watch out for bag straps, rough coats and desktops that keep rubbing over the same spot.
- Air when washing is not yet needed. Only wash if the garment is dirty or no longer smells fresh, and follow the care label.
- Wash inside out. Turn the knit inside out, so the outside does not rub against the drum.
- Protect fine knitwear in the wash. A wash bag can help when the product label allows machine washing and there are rough zips or other parts in the drum.
- Choose the programme and detergent that suit the material. Wool calls for something different than viscose or lyocell. The product label remains leading. Read more on our page with care instructions.
- Dry according to the label. Much knitwear from our collection is dried flat to limit stretching.
How to remove pilling
Do not leave the balls on and never pull at them, because then you break the fibres out of the knit. Lay the sweater flat on a table and work with short, light movements.
- Fabric shaver. Only use a device suitable for clothing and work with minimal pressure. Test first on an inconspicuous spot.
- Small scissors. For loose balls in one spot. Cut carefully just above the fabric, without touching the stitch.
- Clothes brush. A soft brush can remove loose fluff, but does not fully prevent pilling.
Afterwards, check that no bald patches or holes have appeared. To be safe, first work on an inconspicuous spot, such as the side under the arm.
Which knits need the most attention?
How much attention knitwear needs does not depend only on the fibre. The Trenton is a merino polo with a relaxed-fit shape, while Augusta is an open-knit wool and cashmere polo. Because of the different yarns and knit structures, they can react differently to friction. For both, follow their own care label.
Viscose and lyocell knitwear can pill too. Josephine, Eleanor, Liorah and Edmund each have their own knit structure and fit. Their current care advice states delicate wash and dry flat; stick to that product advice instead of using one general rule for all knitwear.
How to store knitwear
Storage counts too. Fold knitted clothing and lay it in a drawer or on a shelf, so the shoulders do not stretch. Do not stack too high, because the weight flattens the sweaters at the bottom. Store your knitwear clean, because dirt attracts moths. Preferably put a sachet of cedar wood between the layers rather than strongly scented products. That way your sweater is ready again in November without having to be refreshed first.
When is a sweater really finished?
Pilling alone does not mean a garment is worn out. After gentle de-pilling the surface can look calmer, but do not expect every knit to look completely new again. With holes, loose stitches or strongly stretched parts, repair often makes more sense than further de-pilling.
Shop the look
Josephine: knitted polo with V-neck, black
Eleanor: ribbed knitted cardigan, white
Liorah: cable-knit polo, navy
Augusta: open-knit wool and cashmere polo, cream
Trenton: open merino wool polo, black
Edmund: fine-knit polo with quarter zip, dark charcoal melange
Frequently asked questions
Is pilling a sign of poor quality?
No, not automatically. Pilling depends on friction, yarn, fibre length and knit structure. Good-quality knitwear can pill too.
May I use a razor against pilling?
We recommend a fabric shaver or a small pair of scissors, because with a razor you easily cut into the stitch. Always work carefully and first on an inconspicuous spot.
How often may I wear a knitted sweater?
There is no fixed maximum. Let knitwear air between wears and only wash when needed.
Can I return clothing if the fit is not right?
Yes. See the current conditions on our returns page.
