Many classic clothing rules are now outdated. White in winter, navy with black, brown in the city and jeans at the office can work perfectly well. Many of those rules came about in a time with stricter dress codes. Three rules do remain standing: fit comes before everything, white is for the bride and polished shoes make or break an outfit.
Where do clothing rules actually come from?
Many rules we inherited from parents and grandparents once had a practical or social reason. You wore white in summer because it is cool, and not after summer because it quickly got dirty in the city. Brown shoes belonged in the countryside, black ones in the city. Navy and black were not combined because dyes used to be less deep, so the two shades looked washed out next to each other. The original reasons often no longer apply.
Rule 1: no white after summer
Forget it. White and cream are especially beautiful in autumn and winter, as long as you wear them in warmer fabrics. White trousers with a dark sweater and loafers look fresh and luxurious in October. You wear the Harrison tapered trousers with pleats in white in summer with a polo and in autumn with a knitted sweater in navy or brown. The difference is not in the colour, but in the weight of the fabric and the pieces around it.
Rule 2: navy and black clash
Forget it. Navy and black can work well together, especially in calm fabrics. Do make sure there is enough difference between the two shades. A black knitted top with navy trousers works better than two almost identical shades that look like an accident. Try the Genevieve sleeveless ribbed knitted polo in black with the Arabelli high-waist trousers with pleats in navy: the rib structure and the pleats give each piece its own character, so the combination looks deliberate.
Rule 3: no brown in the city
Forget it. Brown was long seen as a colour for the weekend and the countryside. Today a good pair of brown trousers is just as business-like as a grey one. Coffee brown and chocolate brown combine easily with white, cream, light blue and navy. The Frederick trousers with pleats in coffee brown have a brushed lining and are therefore as pleasant in the colder months as they look polished.
Rule 4: no jeans at the office
Largely forgotten. In most offices a smart pair of jeans is now fine, as long as it fits well and looks polished. Choose a dark or mid-blue wash without rips, and combine it with a blouse, a knitted polo or a jacket. The Adelaide high-waist contour-fit jeans in blue have a calm wash and a high waist, so with a tucked-in blouse they look almost like trousers. That said: for client meetings, presentations and formal occasions, trousers remain the safer choice. You will find more options for the office in our Office for Women collection.
Rule 5: belt and shoes must be exactly the same colour
Relax it. It is nice if belt and shoes go together, but they do not have to be exactly identical. Look at the colour family and the level of formality. A cognac belt with dark brown loafers is fine. A black belt with brown shoes still feels restless, because the colours come from different families.
Rule 6: socks go with your shoes
The other way round. The old rule said socks had to match your shoes. It looks nicer to match your socks to your trousers, so the line of your leg continues down to the shoe. With loafers in summer you choose invisible socks.
Rule 7: horizontal stripes make you look wider
Qualify it. Wide, contrasting stripes across the stomach can indeed look wider. But fine or medium-width stripes, especially in a fine knit that drapes smoothly, hardly have that effect. A good fit does much more here than the pattern itself.
The three rules that still hold
| Rule | Why it stays |
|---|---|
| Fit comes before everything | A simple piece that fits perfectly always looks better than an expensive piece that does not quite fit |
| White is for the bride | At a wedding you do not wear white, cream or ivory as a guest: a matter of respect |
| Polished shoes | Worn heels or dirty toes drag down any outfit, however good the rest is |
These three are not about taste, but about care and respect. That is why they are timeless. Trousers that fall at the right length, a blouse that does not pull at the buttons and shoes that are polished: you see that immediately, regardless of which colours you combine.
How do you deal with rules?
Clothing rules can be handy as a starting point, but they do not have to lead. They can help when you are unsure, but they do not have to limit you. Look mainly at fit, colour proportion and occasion. That applies to navy with black, to white in winter and to jeans at the office. Choose good fabrics, pay attention to fit and keep the whole look calm, and you can get away with almost any combination. It also helps to look at the occasion: at a wedding, a funeral or a business meeting, other expectations apply than on a terrace with friends.
If you want to build a base that pays little attention to rules, start with a few good trousers in neutral colours. See our trousers for Women and trousers for Men for pieces that last all year.
Shop the look
Arabelli: high-waist trousers with pleats, navy
Genevieve: sleeveless ribbed knitted polo, black
Adelaide: high-waist contour-fit jeans, blue
Harrison: tapered trousers with pleats, white
Frederick: trousers with pleats and brushed lining, coffee brown
Frequently asked questions
Can you really wear white in winter?
Yes. Choose white or cream in warmer fabrics and combine it with dark or warm shades such as navy, brown or camel.
Can you combine navy and black?
Absolutely. Make sure there is clear contrast between the two shades and a difference in texture, so the combination looks deliberate.
Which clothing rule is the most important?
Fit. A garment that fits well makes more difference than any colour or style rule.
