For wool and cashmere, use a special wool detergent without enzymes; for viscose, lyocell and fine knitwear, a mild delicates detergent; for coloured cotton, a colour detergent without bleach; and for white cotton, a white or universal detergent. Fabric softener you simply leave out for most clothing. It leaves a coating on the fibres that reduces stretch, breathability and moisture absorption. With the right choice for each fabric, colours stay beautiful for longer, knitwear stretches less and clothes feel softer, even without softener. Below you can read it by material.
Why the detergent matters
Detergents are not all the same. They differ in the substances that loosen dirt, in whether they contain bleach, and in the presence of enzymes. Enzymes are particularly effective against protein stains such as sweat, blood and food residue, but for that very reason dangerous for fabrics that are themselves made of protein, such as wool, cashmere and silk. Bleach makes white whiter, but makes colours fade. If you choose the wrong product, you will see it after a few washes.
By material: which detergent?
| Material | Detergent | Fabric softener | Temperature |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wool, merino wool, cashmere | Wool detergent without enzymes | No | Cold to 30 degrees, wool programme |
| Viscose and viscose with polyamide | Mild delicates detergent | No | 30 degrees, delicates wash |
| Lyocell | Mild delicates detergent | No | 30 degrees, delicates wash |
| Coloured cotton | Colour detergent | Preferably not | 30 to 40 degrees |
| White cotton | White or universal detergent | Preferably not | 40 degrees or according to the label |
| Polyester with elastane | Colour or delicates detergent | No | 30 degrees |
Always look at the label first: it takes precedence. On our page with washing instructions you will find more explanation by material.
Wool and merino wool: soft and without enzymes
Wool has a scaly surface that felts with heat, friction and the wrong products. A wool detergent is mild, has a neutral pH and contains no enzymes that attack the protein fibres. Use it on a wool programme or wash by hand in lukewarm water. An open polo in 100% merino wool, such as the Trenton in black, also doesn't need to go in the wash often: merino wool stays fresh for longer naturally and often needs no more than a night of airing.
Fabric softener is superfluous with wool. A good wool detergent often already contains lanolin or a conditioning substance that keeps the fibres supple.
Viscose and fine knitwear: mild and cool
Viscose is a beautiful, supple fibre, but vulnerable when wet. Wash it on a delicates programme with a mild delicates detergent, on a low spin. A knitted polo in viscose and polyamide such as the Josephine in cream you wash inside out in a wash bag. Dry flat, never in the dryer.
Delicates detergent is less aggressive than a universal product and contains no bleach. With light colours such as cream that matters: bleach can give a yellowish or dull cast to shades that are not truly white.
Lyocell: keeping it supple
Lyocell is stronger than viscose, but benefits just as much from a mild product. A fine-knit polo such as the Theodore in light grey melange you wash at 30 degrees with delicates detergent. Leave out the fabric softener. Lyocell already feels soft by itself.
Cotton: colour or white
For cotton the most important distinction is colour or white. A coloured shirt, such as the Hamilton shirt in light blue, in 100% cotton, you wash with a colour detergent. It contains no bleach and often a substance that prevents released dye from attaching to other clothes. White cotton shirts you wash with a white or universal detergent, separately from coloured laundry. Read more about the material on our page about cotton.
Denim is a case of its own: jeans such as the Adelaide in blue you wash inside out with a colour detergent, at a low temperature. That way the blue stays deep for longer.
Why you had better leave out fabric softener
Fabric softener works by leaving a thin, greasy coating on the fibres. That feels soft, but has drawbacks:
- It reduces the resilience of elastane, so stretch trousers and blouses bag out sooner.
- It makes fabric less breathable and less absorbent, which you notice with knitwear and shirts.
- On dark clothing it can leave a patchy sheen.
- It builds up in the washing machine and in clothes.
If you still want softer laundry, use less detergent (too much product rinses out poorly and makes fabric stiff), choose an extra rinse and dry knitwear flat rather than in the dryer. If you have hard water, you can use a splash of vinegar in the softener drawer for towels or cotton. Leave that out for wool and silk.
Sorting, wash bag and hand wash
The right detergent only works well if you sort the laundry properly too. Always wash wool and cashmere separately or by hand. Put fine knitwear in viscose and lyocell in a wash bag, so it doesn't keep snagging on zips and buttons of other clothes. Sort cotton into light and dark, and wash new dark clothing, such as jeans, separately the first few times. Close zips and hook-and-loop fastenings before they go in the drum.
Hand washing is often the safest method for wool, cashmere and valuable knitwear. Fill a basin with lukewarm water, dissolve a small amount of wool detergent and immerse the garment for a few minutes without rubbing. Rinse in water of the same temperature, gently press the water out, roll the piece in a towel and leave it to dry flat. Never wring: that stretches the fibres and can cause permanent distortion.
Never dry washed clothes on the radiator. Direct heat can make wool shrink, make viscose stiff and damage elastane. A drying rack in a ventilated room is always the best place.
Dosing: less is often more
Most people use too much detergent. Look on the packaging for the dose for the water hardness in your region and for the level of soiling. Lightly worn clothing, such as a polo you wore for a day at the office, needs no more than the lowest dose. Too much product stays behind in the fibres, makes fabric stiff and can cause skin irritation.
Shop the look
Trenton: open merino wool polo, black
Josephine: knitted polo with V-neck, cream
Theodore: fine-knit open lyocell polo, light grey melange
Hamilton: shirt with Italian collar, light blue
Adelaide: high-waist contour-fit jeans, blue
Frequently asked questions
Can I use fabric softener on wool?
Preferably not. A good wool detergent already keeps the fibres supple. Fabric softener is superfluous and can make the fabric less breathable.
Can I just use ordinary detergent for viscose?
Preferably use a mild delicates detergent. A universal detergent is more aggressive and may contain bleach for light colours.
Why does my laundry go stiff without fabric softener?
Often because of too much detergent that doesn't rinse out properly, or because of hard water. Use less, choose an extra rinse and dry knitwear flat.
